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Writer's pictureMartin Roper

Cyprus birding - trip report November 2022

Updated: Mar 15, 2023

The third largest island in the Mediterranean, Cyprus is a hotspot for migratory birds in spring and autumn and has an enviable list of over 400 bird species including three endemic birds and three endemic sub-species. The endemic Cyprus warbler, Cyprus wheatear and Cyprus scops owl only breed here while Cyprus coal tit, Cyprus jay and Dorothy's short-toed treecreeper are all endemic sub-species found in the forests of Troodos. A fantastic birding destination in spring and autumn but what about November? with this in mind we hired local guide Anderss Gray for the day at the start of our trip which turned out to be invaluable later.

Staying central in Kato Paphos we picked up a pre-booked hire car (4x4 recommended) and armed with the old Gosney book and new Helm field guide we decided to concentrate on 10 locations, all within an hour's drive making the most of the available daylight hours (6.15am - 16.40pm). Birds like the European stonechat over winter in large numbers in Cyprus and can be found all over the Island while Sardinian warbler are also abundant and have colonised many of the endemic Cyprus warbler's habitat, undoubtedly contributing to a decline in numbers. Wood pigeon, Hooded crow, Spanish sparrow, Magpie, House sparrow, Collared dove and Rock dove (feral pigeon) were also prevalent in the areas we visited.

1. Paphos headland

Situated in easy walking distance from Kato Paphos the coastal path and headland is very popular with locals and tourists, visits here are best at first light and even then, you won't be alone. The Archeological site which makes up part of the headland is also busy, and this fenced and gated attraction has an entrance fee of €4.50 accessed from Paphos harbour. Below: Golden plover.

Highlights: 5 Golden plover, 2 Greater sand plover, 2 Common sandpiper, 1 Ringed plover, 1 Red-backed shrike, 5 Northern wheatear, 4 Corn bunting, 7 Black redstart, 12 Red-throated pipit, 2 Willow warbler, 8 Chiffchaff, 1 Zitting cisticola, 8 Yellow-legged gull, 20 White wagtail, 3 Yellow wagtail, 15 Jackdaw, 6 Great tit, 1 Kingfisher, 22 Meadow pipit, 20 Greenfinch, 22 Linnet, 200 Goldfinch, 20 Starling, 6 Crested lark.

2. Paphos sewage works

Located 10km from Paphos, the gated sewage plant and surrounding fields are a great spot for birdwatching.

Highlights: 35 Northern lapwing, 1 Sparrowhawk, 16 Chukar, 2 Jack snipe, 3 Common kestrel, 2 Cattle egret, 3 Common snipe 6 White wagtail, 20 Jackdaw, 2 Chiffchaff, 8 Meadow pipit and 2 Zitting cisticola. 24 Spur-winged lapwing were noted inside the treatment plant while at lower Ezousa river in the small pools, soak-away and reedbeds at the pebble beach we saw 1 Spotted crake, 1 Cetti's warbler, 1 Moustache warbler.

Over the Ezousa river on farmland backing onto the Geroskipou municipal beach we could see Stone curlew in the corner of a recently ploughed field. Approaching the mainly open field lifted the birds, so using the car as a hide we pulled off the road for a quick count. We managed to pick out 74 Stone curlew in one small area of the field conservatively suggesting a flock in excess of 150 birds. Below: Stone curlew.

3. Asprokremmos Dam

Located 16km east of Paphos, the road over the dam wall is a great spot for viewing raptors, although usually at some distance so the use of a scope is recommended. Highlights: 2 Western osprey, 1 Long-legged buzzard, 3 Bonelli's eagle, 1 Peregrine falcon, 1 Eleonora's falcon, 2 Kestrel, 1 Great egret, 1 Little egret, 1 Grey heron, 9 Great crested grebe and 2 Little grebe. In the surrounding wooded area and scrub leading to Anarita Mast we also noted 19 Corn bunting, 1 Little owl, 22 Goldfinch, 8 Linnet, 4 Chiffchaff, 14 Serin.

4.0 Aspro pools (Lower Xeros Potamos River)

This area used to be known as Aspro pools and is situated directly under the dam service wall incorporating the overspill, the terrain is a little challenging in this area but can easily be accessed with an SUV or on foot.

Highlights: 1 Cyprus warbler, 8 Sardinian warbler, 2 Blackcap, 2 Chiffchaff, 3 Great tit, 1f Black redstart, 1 Lesser whitethroat, 16 Chukar, 1 Eleonora's falcon, 1 Sparrowhawk, 1 Bonelli's eagle, 1 Common kestrel, 1 Peregrine falcon, 2 Blackbird, 4 Song thrush, 2 Long-legged buzzard. Below: Cyprus warbler.

5. Agia Varvara

Located around 10km to the east of Paphos, the village of Agia Varvara has a large farming area situated in a valley and irrigated with several large soak-away pools north of the river Ezousa. Here the reedbeds, tamerisk and bushes provide a varied habitat for birds and waterfowl. Highlights: 4 Garganey, 1 Wigeon, 3 Mallard, 1 Northern pintail, 9 Teal, 2 Little grebe, 1 Baillon's crake, 4 Coot, 2 Moorhen, 2 Black redstart, 2 Chiffchaff.

20 White wagtail, 22 Goldfinch, 20 Linnet, 1 Zitting cisticola, 1 Finsch's wheatear, 1 Purple heron, 16 Serin, 1 Kingfisher, 15 Starling 18 Meadow pipit and 1 Water pipit. The surrounding hillsides are great for raptors, here we had 1 Northern Goshawk, 1f Hen harrier, 3 Long-legged buzzard, 2 Bonelli's eagle, 2 Sparrowhawk, 2 Common buzzard, 2 Eleonora's falcon, 1 Marsh harrier, 1 Hobby. Above: Baillon's crake.

6. Anarita Park

This area of rocks and grassy foothill dotted with goat farms and intersected with drivable tracks is a popular wintering ground for Finsch's wheatear and is also good for raptors. Much quieter in the winter months but always worth a visit to check what's around. Highlights: 1 Finsch's wheatear, 2 Crested lark, 2 Sparrowhawk, 1 Red-footed falcon, 2 Common kestrel, 1m Hen harrier, 1 Long-legged buzzard.

Above and Top photo: Red-footed falcon, Below: Finsch's wheatear.

7. Mandria

Located around 15km south-east of Paphos, the coastal area of Mandria and its surrounding farmland can be quite productive for birds, and in particular the area known as "Lark Corner". Highlights: 10 Meadow pipit, 1 Red-backed shrike, 1 Northern wheatear, 1 Whinchat, 1 Blue rock thrush, 4 Skylark, 2 Common kestrel, 5 Crested lark, 30 Linnet, 4 Yellow wagtail, 12 White wagtail, 6 Laughing dove, 1 Black franklin, 8 Chukar.

8. Akrotiri Marsh

Located near Limassol and around 65km from Paphos, the marsh is a very important wetland site which has been designated as a special protection area (SPA). Comprising of mainly reed-beds, the marsh is overlooked by a tower hide in the north and a single-storey hide centrally located and accessed by a fenced path between two grazing pastures. Highlights: 1 Little bittern, 6 Teal, 12 Mallard, 8 Chukar, 4 Black franklin, 3 Water rail, 1 Little grebe, 1c Nightjar, 4 Moorhen, 6 Coot, 1 Squacco heron, 4 Cattle egret, 1 Purple heron, 30 Starling.

2 Little egret, 2 Bonelli's eagle, 4 Hobby, 2 Sparrowhawk, 2 Common buzzard, 5 Bee-eater, 1 Kingfisher, 4 Common kestrel, 3 Eleonora's falcon, 3 Marsh harrier, 2 Red-throated pipit, 4 Meadow pipit, 3 Water pipit, 4 Yellow wagtail, 12 White wagtail, 1 Chaffinch, 12 Goldfinch, 2 Penduline tit, 4 Crested lark, 1 Robin, 1 Zitting cisticola, 3 Barn swallow, 1 willow warbler, 2 Cetti's warbler, 30 Starling, 20 Spur-winged lapwing, 4 Chiffchaff, 1 Wren, 1 Blackbird, 8 Common snipe, 2 Bluethroat. Above: Bluethroat.

9. Troodos Forest

At an altitude of 1,750mt a warm fleece is a welcome addition while you search for the Islands endemic Sub-species, they all can be found here, Dorothy's Short-toed treecreeper, Cyprus Coal tit and Cyprus Jay, add in the Cyprus Red crossbill and this area which is around 78km from Paphos, becomes an important location for visiting birders. (Note: use the A1 not the A6, a section has been closed for the last few years due to rock fall damage on the carriageway). Highlight: 1 Dorothy's Short-toed treecreeper, 3 Cyprus Jay, 4 Greenfinch, 6 Chaffinch, 9 Cyprus Coal tit, 2 female Red crossbill, 8 Great tit, 1 Wren.

10. Zakaki Marsh

Located around 68km from Paphos, Zakaki marsh and bird tower hide is near the port area of Limassol and Lady's mile. We stopped here several times during out trip, but work was underway clearing overgrown reeds from the front of the hide using chainsaws. Aware of the potential once the work had finished, we decided to return Sunday morning hoping for a break in the maintenance, and our tactic paid off. Below: Little bittern.

Highlights: 1 Water rail, 1 Little crake, 1 Little bittern, 1 Purple heron, 1 Common snipe, 2 Yellow wagtail, 1 Grey wagtail, 2 White wagtail, 8 Greenfinch, 12 Linnet, 1 Great reed warbler, 2 Penduline tit, 4 Chiffchaff, 1 Cetti's warbler, 2 Bluethroat, 1 Moustache warbler, 2 Marsh harrier, 1 Moorhen, 1 Kingfisher.

Passing through Lady's mile and the Akrotiri salt flats we spotted around 70 Greater flamingo, 5 Little stint, 2 Common redshank, 30 Slender-billed gull and 1 Marsh harrier all at some distance, returning to Paphos we stopped off at Kensington Cliffs where we noted 2 Peregrine falcon, 1 Common kestrel, 4 Chukar, 2 Shag.

Other trip sightings included 12 Cyprus rock argama, 2 Budak's Snake-eyed Skink, 1 Spiny-footed Lizard, 2 Pincer Grasshopper, 8 Cloud yellow, 12 Swallowtail, 4 Paphos Blue and a Brown rat up a tree.

Checklist:

A total of 106 individual bird species were recorded during the trip with 1 Endemic and all 3 Endemic sub- species, attempt to find the Cyprus wheatear and Cyprus scops wasn't successful but gives us something to aim for on our next trip here. Thanks to Anders Gray, Colin Richardson and Kate and Ian Bloomer.


Full bird sightings checklist: Cyprus bird list 2022


Useful links:

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