Lesvos Birding - Trip report 2025

Martin Roper
Jun 1
16 min read

Updated: Jun 2

Arriving in Skala Kalloni on the 27th of April for 14 days birding and staying at the Kalloni Bay Hotel we checked in and met Costas and Alison at Lesvos Car Hire who were already waiting for us with our rental car. Birding on Lesvos is different each year, birds you expect to find can be difficult to locate while birds rarely spotted can turn up in good numbers. (Red-footed falcon, Rüppell's warbler)

This year was no exception as strong winds made a noticeable impact on bird migration. And although we had great views of birds like the Red-footed falcon (above), overall numbers were down compared to previous years.

We were accompanied on this occasion by our good friend Paul Coombes, it was Paul's first time on the Island and he'd brought a wish-list of #24 lifers. Optimistic but it gave us something to work with so we took the challenge and knocked up an itinerary. In typical fashion some challenging birds on his list were forthcoming while some easy ticks proved more challenging. (Eastern black-eared wheatear).

However the promise of a small beer for a full tick-list was our driving factor and we wasted no time in getting started. We dropped off our luggage, loaded up the car and headed straight out. (Black-headed bunting).

27/04 - At Tsiknias river-mouth a small flock of Sandwich terns were joined by several Little terns and a Common tern on the Sand-bar. 2 Kentish plover foraged while in the surrounding coastal-scrub, Corn bunting, Nightingale and Olivaceous warbler was be heard singing, Bee-eater's hovered in the moderate breeze. At the lower ford we spotted No. #1 Black-headed bunting the first wish-list bird

Other sightings here were 2 Little crake's, Temminck's stint, Wood sandpiper, Common snipe, Purple heron, Ruddy shelduck, Common shelduck and a skulking Little bittern. (Common nightingale, Little crake).

On Lotzaria we had views of a Woodchat shrike, Whinchat and No. #2 Eastern Orphean warbler from our list. House sparrow, Linnet and Crested lark were more obliging, at the Pumping-station we noted a flock of waders including Curlew sandpiper, Common sandpiper, Wood sandpiper, Temminck's stint, Little stint, Ruff and Dunlin. Black-winged stilt and Yellow wagtail were seen on the channel.

At Alykes wetlands the wind picked up so we headed for the square at Skala Kalloni where we had a flyby from the local Barn owl, 55 bird species was recorded in around 4 hours. (Temminck's stint, Curlew sandpipers).

28/04 - Eurasian scops owl No. #3 on our wish-list was roosting in a stand of Eucalyptus trees at the hotel this morning while a short drive to Metochi gave us distant views of No. #4 Pygmy cormorant. In an olive grove we had No. #5 Masked shrikes x 2 along with 2 x Hoopoe. Short-toed snake eagle passed over and No. #6 an Eastern black-eared wheatear was heard singing from a rocky outcrop. (Scops owl).

At the Potamia Old Res. we noted 2 Little bittern and several Little grebe, A Great reed warbler was singing but remained elusive and an Eleonora's falcon was having a spat with a Common buzzard. (Masked shrike).

At Potamia New Res. we had No. #7 Western rock nuthatch and heard Orphean warbler, further on at Potamia Valley we had views of Crag martin, Common swift, House martin, Sand martin, Barn swallow and Red-rumped swallow. Rock turning revealed a Mediterranean checkered scorpion and in the olive groves No. #8 Olive tree warbler from our list was first heard and then located.

From here we went to the Mini soccer pitch in Kalloni (Scops copse) where we saw 2 more Eurasian scops owls before heading back towards the Kalloni Salt-pans (Mediterranean checkered scorpion, Olive tree warbler).

At the Salt-pans we had views of Zitting cisticola, Marsh harrier and Montagu's harrier. Near the sheep-field we ticked No. #9 Greater white pelican, No. #10 Dalmatian pelican and No. #11 a Red-throated pipit from our wish-list. On the Race-track a pair of Red-footed falcon's gave us an impressive arial display. Returning towards the Pumping-station we spotted No. #12 a Spur-winged plover.

76 bird species had been recorded today taking our trip total to 92 birds and halfway towards a small beer with #12 bids already ticked from the lifer wish-list. (Greater white pelican, Red-throated pipit).

29/04 - This morning we headed for Faneromeni. The wind began to pick up as we approached Sigri, past the wooden band-stand on the main road we turned right along the Old road which passes the Petrol station. A Red-backed shrike and a Spotted flycatcher were posing nicely while at the bottom of the road a Golden oriole was spotted in a Fig tree. We took the coast road towards Faneromeni and

noted European roller and No. #13 a Collared flycatcher. At the lower ford a Thrush nightingale was singing, Citrine wagtail and No. #14 Levant sparrowhawk passed through. (Levant sparrowhawk, Collared flycatcher).

At the upper ford a Montagu's harrier and Marsh harrier passed through and 4 more European rollers were observed in a nearby bush. At the bridge several Turtle doves dropped down from the overhead cables and began to forage on the ground. Taking the road back through Sigri we drove along the beach towards the Sanitarium aka. Cheese factory or Cheesecake factory as it became affectionately known.

Here we had great views of a Lesser grey shrike perched on a typical Lesvos rusty fence-line. Red-footed falcon, Eleonora's falcon and several Lesser Kestrel were seen passing over the ridge. (Lesser grey shrike, Lesser Kestrel).

After lunch we began our return journey stopping off on the road to the Petrified forest where we had No. #15 Cretzschmar's bunting from the wish-list. other sightings included Corn bunting, Linnet and Isabelline wheatear. Rock sparrow was heard but not seen. On to Ipsilou monastery where we noted a pair of Blue rock thrush and added No. #16 Eastern subalpine warbler from out wish-list.

A very confiding Eastern black-eared wheatear dropped in close and began to sing as we headed back to the car. A productive day with 78 bird recorded and a trip total of 120. (Cretzschmar's bunting, Blue rock thrush).

30/04 - We headed for the Felia mast before taking the Agriosikos track and passing the church with the small pond where we had views of No. #17 Eastern bonelli's warbler and No. #18 Sombre tit from our wish-list. Further on we saw Short toed treecreeper, Eurasian Nuthatch, Cirl bunting, Masked Shrike and Subalpine warbler. We continued up the hill before reaching an open area with some great views.

The panoramic view down towards the Kalloni salt-pans was amazing, here we had great views of Palid Swift, Alpine swift and Common swift hawking high above the ridge behind. (Sombre tit, Eastern bonelli's warbler).

Several Common buzzard circled overhead followed by Northern goshawk, Common kestrel, Eleonora's falcon, 2 Red-footed falcon's and a Marsh harrier. From here we drove to Achladeri forest but we were unable to locate Krüper's nuthatch despite hearing several recently fledged young calling. Returning back we called at Scops copse where we had views of Eurasian scops owl and Long-eared owl with chicks.

In Papiana we checked out the Eucalyptus trees next to the School-house and had sightings of another pair of Long-eared owls with 4 their juveniles. (Northern goshawk, Long-eared owl juvenile)

Back at the Salt-pans 4 Purple herons passed over and a small flock of Gull-billed terns (lifer for me) were busy hawking fields to the west. Black stork, White stork, Greater flamingo and Pied avocets were also recorded. Along the Tsiknias river a Nightingale broke cover and was singing in full view while Little bittern made a brief appearance before disappearing back in the undergrowth.

A total of 63 bird species was recorded during the day with a trip total of 132 birds. The wish-list was currently at a respectable #18 lifers, I could almost taste the small beer. (Gull billed tern, Purple herons).

01/05 - This morning we checked out the Eucalyptus trees for a Scops owl which had been roosting in the hotel garden and sure enough the Owl was seen on it's usual branch. The forecast was inclement and after breakfast we stayed local. Our first stop was the Tsiknias river-mouth where we noted Little ringed plover, a Dalmatian pelican and 2 Rufous-tailed bush robin's singing from the coastal-scrub.

On the Sand-bar a flock of Mediterranean gulls joined Yellow-legged gulls and Sandwich terns while on the river we had views of Cetti's warbler, Reed warbler, Sedge warbler, Lesser grey shrike, Woodchat shrike, Red-backed shrike, Spotted crake, Little bittern, Glossy ibis and Squacco heron. (Dalmatian pelican, Spotted crake).

On Lotzaria a Little owl was noted eating a Cricket and Montagu's harrier passed through. Behind the Pumping-station we saw a Spotted redshank in full summer plumage, Temminck's stint, Black-winged stilts, Wood sandpiper, Curlew sandpiper and Ruff. On the Salt-pans White winged tern, Whiskered tern, Gull-billed tern, Common tern and Little tern were observed in mixed flocks. (Spotted redshank).

A pair of amorous Spur-winged plover was observed displaying in the surrounding channel. At Kalami marsh a Water rail called but remained elusive. European roller, Raven, Hooded crow and Jay were also noted. Back at the Tsiknias river a Great bittern was spotted in a clearing. 89 birds today with a trip total of 142. (Bittern).

02/05 - Good numbers of Black-eared wheatear and Red-backed shrike were recorded on our way to Sigri this morning. We took the old road again before the main roundabout and saw a European roller on top of a bush, further on another was on a boulder and over the road another 7 were perched in a small tree. We watched the Rollers for a while using the car as a mobile hide, the birds just a few metres away.

Continuing along the road a Common cuckoo was our next sighting and the bird was observed sat on the rocks catching some lovely early morning sunshine, a great start to the day. (Common cuckoo, European roller).

Heading through Sigri towards the Sanitarium we had a close encounter with a Honey buzzard which was being mobbed by several Yellow-legged gulls, a Fox was along a fence-line and a Lesser grey shrike was noted on top of the fence. We Stopped off at the Sanitarium where we had views of 2 Golden oriole. Common kestrel, Lesser kestrel, Red-footed falcon, Hobby and Eleonora's falcon all passed overhead.

A Spotted flycatcher and several pairs of Sardinian warbler were also present along with a flock of Bee-eaters. On the way to Faneromeni we recorded Levant sparrowhawk and Little owl. (Golden oriole, Spotted flycatcher).

At Faneromeni we had 2 Barred warblers, the first was lightly barred and showed nicely the second was a striking male but camera shy. Lesser whitethroat was also recorded. In a Sheep-field a pile of logs was attracting a good selection of birds including Spotted Flycatcher, Collared flycatcher and Pied flycatcher. Along with Masked shrike, Wren, Wood warbler, Great reed warbler and Red-breasted flycatcher.

A Thrush nightingale was in fine voice but proved difficult to locate giving us brief views as it flitted around the undergrowth. It was dark when we finally set off for Skala Kalloni after recording 72 bird species for the day and taking our trip total to 150 birds, Paul's lifer list was still at #18 (Lesser whitethroat, Barred warbler).

03/05 - A Nightingale was in fine voice early this morning as we packed the car and headed towards Makara. Stopping off first at Parakila marsh we recorded around 40 Greater Flamingo, Common sandpiper, Greenshank, Black-winged stilt, Pied avocet, Common shelduck and Great reed warbler. A Water rail was vocal but remained hidden from view in the reed-bed. (Greater flamingo).

We took the road to Makara and noted several Purple heron's in a small pond. On the hillside a dozen or more Red-footed falcon's hawked over the open scrub some perching in-between their sorties. (red-footed falcon's)

Taking the track towards the beach we saw Glass lizard, Rock nuthatch, Sombre tit and Orphean warbler. Near the ford we recorded Little bittern, Little crake, Little ringed plover and Little stint, Alpine swift was observed swooping down to drink at the river-mouth. At lunch we headed to the fish restaurant in Aporthika and sat by the waters edge taking in the view. (Alpine swifts).

An Elegant tern called as it passed through and by the time we got to our cameras the bird had already left the bay, another diner had a bridge camera at the table and managed record shots good enough for identification, It was a Lesser crested tern and another lifer for me. (Little bittern, Glass lizard).

Returning back to our base during the midday heat we ventured back out early evening, heading over to Perasma reservoir where we observed a pair of Great spotted cuckoos in trees near the road. The female sat in the tree as the male took off and searched for food. Returning with a Caterpillar we observed the male jump on the females back to feed her before mating. A fitting climax to a great day birding on Lesvos.

Today we recorded 80 bird species taking our trip list total to 154 birds, our wish-list was still running at #18 and with #6 more birds eluding us it was time to step up the challenge. (Great spotted cuckoo).

04/05 - Setting off early we headed to the Petrified forest road in search of a Common rosefinch which had been reported the day before. No luck on that front but we did have some great views of No. #19 Cinereous bunting, Cretzschmars bunting, Corn bunting, Cirl bunting and Black-headed bunting. No. #20 Chukar was our next sighting from our wish-list as several were spotted in the undergrowth.

Other sightings here included Northern wheatear, Black-eared wheatear, Isabelline wheatear, Rock sparrow, Linnet, Tree pipit and Large numbers of Yellow-legged gulls and Hooded crows. (Chukar, Cinereous bunting).

Continuing on to Sigri we took the track through Meladia valley towards Eressos stopping off at the chapel where we had some great views of a roosting Common nightjar. Crag martin's hawked a nearby field while Willow warbler, Olivaceous warbler, Spotted flycatcher and Chaffinch were also spotted at the chapel. Short-toed snake eagle, Lesser kestrel, Eleonora's falcon and Common buzzard passed by.

At the ford a flock of Bee-eaters called as they circled above the fig orchard and an Antlion was seen on the wild flowers. Orphean warbler, Ruddy shelduck, Black stork, Squacco heron and a good numbers of Shrikes were all recorded including Lesser grey, Woodchat, Masked and Red-backed. (Olivaceous warbler, Nightjar, Antlion).

Further along the tracks we recorded a Little owl, Rufous-tailed bush robin, Woodlark, Raven, Rock nuthatch, and a Sardinian warbler. A Common cuckoo was also observed being fervently harassed by Black headed buntings before eventually retreating. Other sightings here were Alpine swift, Common swift, Whinchat, Stonechat, Red-rumped swallow, Orphean warbler, Golden oriole and Hoopoe.

The light began to fade as we reached Eressos and took the coast road back towards our base in Skala Kalloni. 70 bird species was recorded today with a trip total of 155 birds, our wish list was at #20. (Orphean warbler).

05/05 - Conscious we still had #4 birds outstanding from our wish-list, this morning we set off with this in mind and headed for Charamida. Our purpose was to find No. #21 Rüppell's warbler and it wasn't too long before we had our first sighting. Other birds of note here were Greenfinch, Black-eared wheatear, Cretzschmar's bunting, Goldfinch and Sardinian warbler which was noted singing on the bush tops.

Several Chukar were observed roaming through the undergrowth and a Common nightjar was spotted roosting on a dead wood stack close to the narrow track. ( Rüppell's warbler, Sardinian warbler).

Stopping for lunch at To Steki tou Strati in Loutra we had great views of Collared dove and Laughing dove. Credited as the first breeding place in Greece for Laughing dove there is a healthy population still here with many of the locals regularly feeding them. We enjoyed lunch watching Swallows and Martins flying low through the narrow cobbled streets of the village as Swifts passed overhead. (Laughing dove).

On our way back we headed to Achladeri forest and had great views of No. #22 Krüper's nuthatch. We also recorded 3 juvenile Short-toed treecreeper's which looked like recent fledglings. Other sightings here were Long tailed tit, Blue tit, Great tit, Serin and Woodlark. Heading back to base we added European shag to our tally which was 70 species for the day and 161 for the trip, with just 2 birds left on the wish-list. (Krüper's nuthatch).

06/05 - This morning we skipped breakfast stopping near Hotel Imerti after a WhatsApp alert flagged up a Western cattle egret, then we headed towards Felia mast where we noted several singing Eastern bonelli's warbler, Turtle dove, Woodlark, Sombre tit, Subalpine warbler and No. #23 Middle spotted woodpecker from the wish-list. A Common buzzard passed overhead followed by Short-toed snake eagle.

Other sightings here included Hoopoe, Jay, Blackbird and an abundance of Eastern festoon butterflies. Setting off through the village of Dafia we headed for Lake Metochi. (Subalpine warbler, Middle spotted woodpecker).

Arriving at Metochi we spotted Little bittern, Woodchat shrike, Masked shrike, Nightingale, Cetti's warbler, Orphean warbler, Reed warbler and Crested lark. Common swift, Barn swallow, Red-rumped swallow and House martin swooped down to drink while at Potamia we noted Crag Martin, Olive tree warbler and Dice snake in the shallow water from the bridge. (Common swift).

We returned to our hotel for a few hours and headed back out late afternoon when the heat abated. Along the Salt-pans we recorded Collared pratincole, Temminck's stint, Glossy Ibis and Greater short toed lark while on Tsiknias river we noted Purple heron, Squacco heron and Little ringed plover, recording 73 bird species for the day and bringing our trip total to 164 with just #1 bird remaining from the wish-list. (Collared pratincole).

07/05 - We reached Ipsilou Monastery this morning but the strong wind was hampering bird sightings. In sheltered patches we managed to record both male and female Cirl bunting, Blue rock thrush, Wood warbler and a Spotted flycatcher. A raptor passed through at great speed and was a possible Black Kite. We managed a few record shots of the bird to enable a positive identification later.

The road to the Petrified forest wasn't any better as the wind howled down through the valley, all we noted here was Cretzschmar's bunting and Rock sparrow we headed towards Faneromeni. (Rock sparrow, Cirl bunting).

We reached Faneromeni and went to the lower ford where we had a juvenile Black-crowned night heron (the only one recorded during our trip) and a Little bittern while at the chapel on Meladia valley we recorded an Icterine warbler and a Rufous-tailed bush robin. At this point we conceded to the elements and began our journey back towards Skala Kalloni and Tsiknias river. (Black-crowned night heron).

At the river-mouth we recorded Common tern, Little tern, Sandwich tern and had views of 2 Caspian terns on the Sand-bar. We also recorded Kentish plover, Little ringed plover and Little stint. Returning back out early evening we went to the Scops copse noting 2 Scops owl and heard 2 more calling. An adult Long-eared owl and several juveniles were also seen. A challenging day, 64 birds recorded and a trip total of 168. (Caspian tern).

08/05 - A quick look around the hotel this morning and we started the day with a Long-eared owl which was roosting in the front garden. There was no sign of the Scops owl. Heading for Tsiknias river-mouth we spotted Rufous-tailed bush robin in the coastal scrub, a Dalmatian pelican was in the bay and 3 Spoonbills were observed feeding in the shallows of the river-mouth next to the Sand-bar. (spoonbills).

Other sightings included Ringed plover, Ruddy Turnstone, Mediterranean gull, Yellow-legged gull, Little tern, Common tern and Sandwich tern which were also spotted on the Sand-bar. (Rufous-tailed bush robin).

Passing through the Salt-pans we recorded Marsh harrier and Little owl before continuing through to Kremasti bridge where we noted Middle spotted woodpecker, Sombre tit, Turtle dove, Subalpine warbler and a singing Olive tree warbler. From here we headed over to Napi valley where we had views of Crag martin, Barn swallow, Red-rumped swallow and Common swift. (Little owl).

At Napi valley we had a WhatsApp alert for Marsh sandpiper at Parakila and headed straight over, a group of birders there confirmed the report was erroneous and was most likely a mis-identified Greenshank. As we were in the area we headed to Makara and had great views of several Rock nuthatch, Short-toed Snake eagle and a Little Bittern, 80 Birds were recorded today with 168 for the trip to date. (Rock nuthatch).

09/05 - This morning we headed to Eressos taking the track through Meladia valley to Sigri. 5 species of bunting were recorded, Cretzschmar's Corn, Cirl, Cinereous and Black-headed. Along with 3 species of Wheatear, Black-eared, Northern and Isabelline. We also had views of Rock nuthatch, Rock sparrow and Woodlark. There was also a noticeable increase in the number of Shrike sightings since our last visit.

Red-backed shrike, Woodchat shrike and Masked shrike were all recorded while the highlight of the day had to be an Orphean warbler observed feeding recently fledged young. (Isabelline wheatear, Norther wheatear).

At the Sanitarium we recorded Golden oriole and Long-legged buzzard, this should have been #24 on our Lifer list but unfortunately Paul didn't see it. Eleonora's falcon, Lesser kestrel and Kestrel were also noted along with a circling Short-toed snake eagle. In Faneromeni we had Bee-eater, 3 Rufous-tailed bush robin, Spotted flycatcher, Golden oriole and a lovely male Barred warbler.

Returning via Scops copse we picked out 2 well hidden Scops owls in the Eucalyptus trees, 65 bird species recorded today with a trip total of 172 , #1 bird from the list was still outstanding. (Red-backed shrike, Snake eagle).

10/05 - This morning before breakfast we walked the gardens of the hotel checking the trees for Owls, there was no sign of the Scops owl which has been absent from its usual perch for the last few days but the Long-eared owl was still present. From here we headed to the Tsiknias river where we recorded Dalmatian pelican, Ruddy turnstone, Kentish plover and Ringed plover. (Long-eared owl).

Mediterranean gull, Yellow legged gull, Curlew sandpiper and a possible Caspian gull was also noted. On the river we had 2 Little bittern and 2 Squacco heron. At the Pump-station we recorded Spur-winged plover.

At Felia we had views of Sparrowhawk, Common buzzard, and Kestrel but the highlight of the day was a displaying Honey buzzard observed wing clapping as it circled in the valley near the mast. Other sightings here included 4 Eastern bonelli's warbler, a pair of Masked shrikes and 2 Middle spotted woodpeckers were noted passing through. (Spur-winged plover, Common buzzard).

On the road to Molyvos we pulled over to view a Common Buzzard and a Short-toed snake eagle followed by a second Honey buzzard. After stopping off at Molyvos harbour for lunch we spent a few hours at Perasma Res.

looking for Long-legged buzzard, the last bird on our list. Sightings included Ruddy shelduck, Turtle dove, Cirl bunting, Raven and Black-eared wheatear. 80 Bird species today and 172 for the trip. (Turtle dove).

11/05 - This morning was our last. The car had been returned and our transfer was due at lunch. We took a stroll down the Tsiknias river watching Bee-eater's gliding on the breeze, the peace and quiet occasionally interrupted by a noisy Cetti's warbler. Nightingale joined the chorus as we noted Curlew sandpiper, Ruddy turnstone, Ringed plover, Grey plover, Little tern and Yellow-legged gull. (bee-eater)

37 bird species this morning and our trip total for year was 173 species. We managed #23 lifers from the wish-list of #24 birds, and missed out on a small beer even though by the end of the trip we had seen several Long-legged buzzard's but Paul hadn't seen any. I was beginning to think he didn't want to pay-up. (Little tern).

We returned home and I began going through the images taken during our trip, then I remembered the raptor at Ipsilou which looked like a Black kite. We hadn't positively identified the bird. I checked the images I took and to my delight the raptor was a #24 Long-legged buzzard, and what's more Paul had seen it and taken some photo's too. Great result, and a great Lesvos trip. (Long-legged buzzard).

I'm still waiting for the small beer.... The Travelling Birder.

Lesvos birding sightings list: https://Lesvos_2025

Lesvos birding 2025 video: