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Writer's pictureMartin Roper

Lesvos Birding - Trip report 2023

Updated: Apr 3

A European roller is sittings on giant Fennel in the early morning sunshine, its one of six perched in the field, some are on Fennel the rest are sitting on overhead cables as they take it in turns to catch insects on the wing. This one takes off, returning with a large beetle while others continue with their impressive aerial acrobatics, we watch this colourful display for while before continuing on, its going to be a great day birding on Lesvos.

27th April - Tsiknias river and Lotzaria track.

We arrived at noon taking the transfer to hotel Pasiphae in Skala Kalloni where a hire car was already waiting, checking in we dropped off our bags and headed straight out. A Corn bunting called from a rusty wire fence as we reached the Bandstand. At the river-mouth we watched Common tern, White-winged tern, Black tern and Little tern swooping and diving while Common swift and Paild swift were catching insects on the wing. Further along the track we stopped after the ford where a Spotted crake briefly emerged from the vegetation. We counted 6 Wood sandpiper here and 4 Glossy ibis, preening at close quarters while a Common snipe was observed in front of the reeds. A Squacco heron passed over, 2 Yellow wagtail dropped in and a Black-headed bunting began singing from the top of a tree. We continued on until we reached the road, crossing the bridge and returning on the opposite side of the river before heading down Lotzaria track. Halfway along the track we had views of 3 Red-footed falcon hawking over the field at some distance. From here we returned back to the Tsiknias crossing over the ford, other sightings included Woodchat shrike, Cetti's warbler and Whinchat.

28th April - Metochi, Meladia valley and the Petrified forest.

This morning we headed out before breakfast to Metochi lake and as the sun came out so did the hirundines. A mixed flock of around 200+ Sand martin, Common house martin, Barn swallow and red-rumped swallow

along with 9 Common Swift skimming the surface of the lake with precision and taking insects on the wing.

Some of the hirundines perched as Great reed warbler and Eurasian reed warbler flitted back and forth and 2 Little bittern were observed moving stealthily through the reedbed. In a small open patch we had brief views of a Little crake as Marsh frogs croaked and Turtles basked. Towards Potamia in one of the many olive groves 2 Olive tree warblers were calling as a Hoopoe foraged on the ground and a pair of Masked shrike re-affirmed their bond, other highlights were Eurasian Jay, Woodchat shrike, Orphean warbler and Olivacious warbler.

After breakfast we drove to Eresos and picked up the track through the Meladia valley heading towards Sigri. Bonelli's eagle, Short-toed snake eagle, Common buzzard, Black-eared wheatear and Northern wheatear was spotted on way to the upper ford where we had great views of Black-headed bunting, Rock nuthatch, Rock sparrow and Sardinian warbler. At the lower ford we noted Red-backed shrike and Woodchat shrike while at the chapel we spotted Orphean warbler, Olivacious warbler, Common whitethroat, Corn bunting, Spotted flycatcher and Cretzschmar's bunting. Climbing up the hill an Eleonora's falcon passed at speed while down at the Cheese factory we had distant views of 27 Lesser Kestrel and a single Red-footed falcon over the ridge.

Returning back we took the Petrified forest road spotting 8 Golden oriole and a pair of Isabelline wheatear.

29th April - Papiana, Scops copse, Ipsilou monastery and Faneromeni.

This morning we stopped at Papiana, checking out the olive groves opposite the school house for Scops owl. Behind the leaves of a Eucalyptus tree we located our first Owl well hidden by the foliage. Continuing on we called over to the Scops Copse (Mini soccer pitch) through Kalloni where we located our second Scops owl.

Once again the Owl was behind the thick cover of a Eucalyptus tree by the roadside, we scanned the rest of the area for birds and were ready to leave when we spotted our third Scops owl, this time it was in the open on the branch of a Eucalyptus by the entrance to the Scops Copse, our next stop was at Ipsilou Monastery.

Parking at the bottom we walked up the left hand road a few hundred yards and took the steps on the right hand side up a winding overgrown path leading to the top. A pair of Blue rock thrush was observed carrying food and a Rock sparrow perched on the monastery window sill. A Rock bunting called as we continued up the path where we had sightings of Black-eared wheatear, Pied flycatcher, Collared flycatcher, Cirl bunting, Spotted flycatcher, Orphean warbler, Sombre tit, Subalpine warbler, Raven, Blackcap and Wood warbler.

From here we headed towards Faneromeni where we observed 3 Red-footed falcon hawking over farmland

while near the beach a Red-breasted flycatcher was noted along with a confiding Rufous-tailed scrub robin.

Other highlights here included Long-legged buzzard, Bonelli's eagle, Woodchat shrike, Masked shrike, Red-backed shrike and Middle spotted woodpecker. Heading back a female Hen harrier passed over on the road.

30th April - Metochi, Potamia valley, Kalloni Saltpans and Tsiknias river.

This morning we headed to Metochi lake and the Potamia valley where we noted Little bittern, Grey heron, Common buzzard, Peregrine falcon, Olive tree warbler, Orphean warbler, Great reed warbler, Barn swallow, Sand martin, Swift, House martin, Little crake, Cetti's warbler, Crag martin, Bee-eater, Olivacious warbler,

Reed warbler, Masked shrike, Red-backed shrike, Woodchat shrike, Black-eared wheatear, Jay and Hoopoe.

From here we called over to the Racetrack at Kalloni saltpans where 2 Tawny pipit had been reported and it wasn't long before we located one of the birds. Using the car as a mobile hide we waited and eventually the bird came fairly close. Other sightings here included Meadow pipit, Short-toed lark, Shag, Common kestrel, Crested lark, Yellow-legged gull, Sparrowhawk and Red-throated pipit. Back on the saltpans we had sightings of Greater flamingo, Black stork, White stork, Yellow wagtail, Pied avocet, Black-winged stilt, Little egret and Wood Sandpiper. Returning back via the Tsiknias river we had views of Glossy ibis, Jack snipe, Little bittern, Squacco heron, Cetti's warbler, Common nightingale, Bee-eater, Corn bunting and Ferruginous duck.

1st May - Felia track, Agriosikos, Kalloni saltpans, Lotzaria track and Tsiknias river.

This morning we headed towards the mast at Felia and following the track to Agriosikos we stopped near the small pond where we spotted a female Subalpine warbler, several Eurasian nuthatch and a Spotted flycatcher. A pair of Masked shrike collected insects while a Cirl bunting was singing on top of a bush. Other highlights here included Chukar, Lesser whitethroat, Common whitethroat, Orphean warbler and Collared flycatcher.

Stopping further along the track we had great views of an Eastern bonelli's warbler singing from the tree tops before disappearing from view, we noted a total of 5 Bonelli's warbler here along with sightings of Chaffinch and Middle spotted woodpecker. From here we headed back via Kalloni saltpans, Lotzaria track and Tsiknias river where we observed an increased number of Bee-eater sightings along with Little bittern, Squacco heron, Ruddy shelduck, Black-winged stilt, Avocet, Little grebe, Common shelduck and Short-toed snake eagle.

2nd May - Kalloni saltpans, Perasma and Kremasti.

This morning we headed through the saltpans to the north corner where we had great views of Black-winged stilt in some fantastic early morning sunshine. From here we took the coast road towards Petra and headed to Perasma reservoir in search of a Great spotted cuckoo, we passed the reservoir and continued along the road.

Parking the car we heading down to the small quarry where we had views of Black-eared wheatear, Subalpine warbler, Eurasian Jay, Raven, long-legged buzzard and Short-toed snake eagle. Returning to the car we saw a walking trail which climbed up the hill behind a large farm building. Reaching the top we had great views of Molyvos, sightings here were Turtle dove, Common cuckoo and Hooded crow, and at the car Cirl bunting.

From here we made our way over to Kremasti parking near the bridge. Several Hoopoe were observed in the olive groves along with Middle spotted woodpecker. Down the track near the small chapel there were flocks of Turtle dove but distant. Other sightings here included, Red-backed shrike, Subalpine warbler, Chaffinch, Eurasian jay, Great tit, Olivacious warbler, Crested lark, Goldfinch, Black-eared wheatear and Cirl bunting.

Returning back to base an adult Long-eared owl was observed opposite the football ground with two owlets. Later that evening one of the owlets fell from the tree and was in real danger of predation from the local stray cats, the youngster was rescued and placed in the next tree along the road. After dark a Barn owl was spotted flying over the village square with prey before it disappeared down the chimney of the abandoned gift shop.

Opposite the Environmental centre a Little owl sat in a hole on a derelict farm building with a missing roof while outside the hotel Malemi a Scops owl called from a tree each evening but proved challenging to locate.

3rd May - Achladeri forest, Mikri Limni, Polichonitos and Kalloni saltpans.

This morning we headed for Achladeri forest where we had a very brief encounter with a Krüper's nuthatch. Near the stream there were Dunnock, Long-tailed tit and Short-toed treecreeper, a Violet bird's nest Orchid was spotted while overhead a Short-toed snake eagle circled and Common cuckoo was calling. Other notable

sightings included Turtle dove, Black-eared wheatear, Spotted flycatcher, Chaffinch, Serin, Wren and Raven.

Continuing on we headed to Mikri Limni where more Krüper's had been reported, in this area we had Blue tit, Chaffinch, Long-tailed tit, Short-toed treecreeper and Eurasian jay but no further sightings of Nuthatch.

Our next stop was Polichonitos where we had views of a large flock of Little stint and several Kentish plover,

Other sightings here included Common sandpiper, Wood sandpiper, Yellow wagtail and Red-throated pipit. A common buzzard perched on a tree and a Common kestrel hovered overhead as we observed a small flock of Bee-eater sitting on overhead utility cables. We stopped and watched the bee-eaters hawking over the field,

from here we headed back via Kalloni saltpans where we had views of Common shelduck, Ruddy shelduck, Black stork, White stork, Greater flamingo, Glossy ibis, Little bittern, Black-crowned night heron, Squacco heron, Little egret, Avocet, Ruff, Black-winged stilt, Little tern, Common tern and White-winged tern.

4th May - Faneromeni and the Meladia valley.

Today we headed to Faneromeni and at the upper ford we spotted a Thrush nightingale singing from a bush, down near the waters edge, Red-rumped swallow collected mud while a Spotted flycatcher was taking a bath, 2 Golden oriole were perched in a tree down from the ford and a Pied flycatcher was noted near the crossing,

other sightings included Barn swallow, Cetti's warbler, Great reed warbler, Reed warbler and Sedge warbler.

Returning towards the beach we had views of Collared flycatcher, Olivacious warbler, Laughing dove, Red-backed shrike, Woodchat shrike, Masked shrike, Black headed bunting and Long-legged buzzard. On a field near the beach we had views of Rufous-tailed scrub robin and at the beach we spotted 2 Little ringed plover.

Continuing on we headed through Sigri to the Meladia valley where we had views of Short-toed snake eagle, Chukar, Common buzzard, Cirl bunting, Wood warbler, Orphean warbler, Common whitethroat, Black-headed bunting, Sardinian warbler, Black-eared wheatear, Whinchat, Rock Nuthatch, Northern wheatear, Common swift, Lesser Kestrel, Common Kestrel, Red-footed falcon, Bee eater, Chiffchaff, Icterine warbler, Blackcap, Lesser whitethroat, Common nightingale, Corn bunting, Cretzschmar's bunting and Isabelline wheatear. Returning back through Eresos we called off at Parakila marsh where we noted Greater flamingo.

5th May - Perasma, Kalloni saltpans and Tsiknias river.

We set off early this morning and headed to Perasma, looking for the elusive Great spotted cuckoo once more and as we arrived at the reservoir inclement weather began to set in. Through the rain and fog we managed to catch sight of a Common cuckoo near the quarry along with a pair of Raven and a flock of Ruddy shelduck which passed over flying towards the water. The weather began to deteriorate and as we retreated back to the car for shelter we observed a Cirl bunting looking positively miserable on mesh fencing near the parking area.

We returned back to our hotel for breakfast and after a change of clothes the weather began to improve as we headed back out this time for the Tsiknias river. Our first sighting was Black-crowned night heron in a tree a few hundred yards from the bandstand. Further down the track we spotted Little bittern, Little grebe, Little ringed plover and Grey heron. Further down the track Swallows, Swifts and Bee-eaters were catching insects on the wing. Bee-eaters were occasionally perching on the fencing and branches along the river so we pulled over and watched for a short while before crossing the bridge and returning on the opposite side of the river.

We Continued along the track and headed for Lotzaria where we had views of Whinchat, Red-backed shrike, Woodchat shrike and Olivacious warbler. Stopping at the pool around the back of the pump house we noted Wood sandpiper, Little stint, Temminck's stint, Black-winged stilt, Red-throated pipit, Grey wagtail, Yellow wagtail, Cetti's warbler, Stonechat and Ruff. From here we headed towards the north corner of the Saltpans where we spotted Marsh harrier, Whiskered tern, Common tern, Black-winged tern, Little tern, Black stork, Greater flamingo, White stork, White-winged tern, Ruddy shelduck, Little egret and Short-toed snake eagle,

while over on Alykes field we noted Greater short-toed lark, Common Kestrel, Shag and Collared pratincole.

6th May - Ipsilou monastery, Petrified forest and Faneromeni.

This morning we set off early on the Sigri road to Ipsilou, we parked at the top and took the overgrown path on the right hand side of the entrance. 50 yards down the path the trees were shielded from the strong wind providing a refuge for an influx of Wood warbler. Blue rock thrush was also noted along with Rock sparrow and a female Blackcap. Continuing down the path we had sightings of Lesser whitethroat, Orphean warbler, Icterine warbler, Spotted flycatcher, Collared flycatcher, Pied flycatcher, Cir bunting Eleonora's falcon and Black-headed bunting. Back at the car a Golden oriole flew passed at speed like a missile in the strong wind.

Our next stop was on the road to the Petrified forest, here we had views of Black-eared wheatear, Northern wheatear, Isabelline wheatear and Cretzschmar's bunting. At the end of the road in the carpark a Little owl flew from the farm building landing on a rock while a pair of Stone curlew was observed in the sheep field.

From here we headed to Faneromeni where we had sightings of Red-breasted flycatcher, Red-backed shrike, Woodchat shrike, Masked shrike, Short-toed snake eagle, Common buzzard, Common kestrel, Red-footed falcon and Bee-eater. At the lower ford we had great views of a male Barred warbler while at the upper ford near arable farmland we had sightings of 3 Turtle doves on overhead cables and a hawking European roller.

7th May - Charamida, Kalloni saltpans and Tsiknias river and Kalloni pools.

Today we headed for Charamida where the coastal scrub-land is an ideal environment for Rüppells warbler. Parking is limited to either top or bottom, either way there's an element of up-hill walking unless you have a 4x4 for for the rough track halfway along. We stopped near the bottom and had views of Common buzzard, Chukar, Chaffinch, Eleonora's falcon, Honey buzzard and a Short-toed snake eagle complete with a Snake.

Continuing to the top we parked and walked down the hill stopping a third of the way down where we had views of a pair of Rüppells warbler at some considerable distance away. Halfway down near the rough track another male Rüppells warbler passed over the road several times followed by a female. We headed down the rough track about 30 yards and spotted the male singing from a bush. Sardinian warbler, Olivacious warbler, Common whitethroat, Stonechat, Northern wheatear, Black-eared wheatear and Blackcap were also noted.

Returning back via the Saltpans, Tsiknias and Kalloni pools where we noted Eurasian bittern, Little bittern, Black-crowned night heron, Squacco heron, Grey heron, Temminck's stint, Common tern, White-winged tern, Bee-eater, Red-backed shrike, Lesser grey shrike, Great white egret, Woodchat shrike, Masked shrike, Great reed warbler, Sedge warbler, Glossy ibis, Reed warbler, Little stint and Yellow wagtail.

8th May - Tsiknias river, Kalloni saltpans, Perasma and Napi valley.

This morning we loaded the car and checked around for birds, our usual morning ritual before heading out. Sometimes its a singing Common nightingale which has no concept of day or night or Black-crowned night herons passing over. Other morning we spot Eurasian jay in the pine trees or hear the scratching sound of an Olivacious warbler, today it was a light phase Eleonora's falcon sat in a tree near the entrance to the carpark.

We finished loading the car and headed for the Tsiknias, crossing the ford and taking Lotzaria to the Saltpans where we noted Glossy ibis, Woodchat shrike, Lesser grey shrike, Greater flamingo, Wood sandpiper, Black-winged stilt, Yellow wagtail, Dalmatian pelican, Marsh harrier, Red-throated pipit, Ruff and Sedge warbler.

From here we went to Perasma stopping at the building near the reservoir where we noted a Little owl on the chimney, on the reservoir were flocks of Yellow-legged gulls along with Little ringed plover, Ruddy shelduck, Grey heron and Common Shelduck. Further along the road near the carpark we had sightings of Black-eared wheatear, Turtle dove, Eurasian jay, Common cuckoo, Red-backed shrike and Cirl bunting. A pair of Short-toed snake eagle circled overhead and Long-legged buzzard was being mobbed by a belligerent Hooded crow.

Our last stop was Napi valley via Kremasti, sightings included Middle spotted woodpecker, Jay, Sombre tit, Common buzzard, Common swift, House martin, Sand martin, Red-rumped swallow, Barn swallow, Red-backed shrike, masked shrike, Cetti's warbler, Willow warbler, Song thrush, Robin, Common whitethroat, Subalpine warbler, Nightingale and Black-headed bunting along with a pair of Beetles rolling a dung ball.

9th May - Faneromeni, Sigri and Meladia valley.

This morning we set off before sunrise and headed west on the Sigri road to Faneromeni and Meladia valley. Through Kalloni near the Sigri turnoff we saw 2 Nightjar and up the hill towards Felia mast we had 3 more, at Antissa we took a detour around the village and heard Scops owl calling from the single tree in the square.

Continuing on to Faneromeni we reached the beach where we had great views of Rufous-tailed scrub robin and Great reed warbler while at the upper ford we stopped for a while to observe 6 European rollers hawking over arable farmland. From here we followed the coast road and spotted White wagtail, Long-legged buzzard, Turtle dove, Red-backed shrike and Woodchat shrike. At the Cheese factory (sanitarium) we noted Orphean warbler, Lesser kestrel, Red-footed falcon, Corn bunting, Cretzschmar's bunting and Northern Wheatear.

Along the track to Meladia valley, a Short-toed snake eagle perched on a utility pole while from the roof of a nearby farm building a Little owl flew towards us for a closer look. Stopping off at the chapel a Golden oriole was seen passing by while in the trees, Pied flycatcher, Spotted flycatcher, Wood warbler, Icterine warbler and a male Barred warbler were spotted. At the ford we had views of several Ruddy shelduck and a Chukar while further along we saw Common kestrel, Common buzzard, Rock sparrow, Rock nuthatch, Northern Raven, Cirl bunting, Cetti's warbler, Black-eared wheatear, Black-headed bunting and Masked shrike.

10th May - Metochi, Kalloni saltpans and Tsiknias river.

Today we headed over to Metochi lake arriving early morning, highlights here included Little bittern, Cetti's warbler, Reed warbler and a Little crake. In the Olive groves a Hoopoe foraged on the ground while a pair of Jay perched on the wire fence. Great reed warbler called from the reeds while Common swift, Sand martin, House martin, Barn swallow, Red-rumped swallow, Grey heron and Bee-eater were all noted flying overhead.

On the Leimonos walking trail we had a pair of Woodchat shrike and a European roller which was perching on a bush. Towards Potamia we had sightings of Crag martin, Common buzzard and Long-legged buzzard, other sightings here included Red-backed shrike, Orphean warbler, Sardinian warbler, Masked shrike, Olive tree warbler, Turtle dove and a family of Northern Raven. Driving the short distance back to Skala Kallonis we headed for the Tsiknias river-mouth where White-winged tern, Black tern, Little tern and Common tern were all fishing around a group of 30 Greater flamingo. At the bandstand a Spur-winged lapwing was noted along with Common sandpiper and Little ringed plover. Other sightings here included Rufous-tailed scrub robin, Cetti's warbler, Common nightingale, Black-headed bunting and Common whitethroat along with a large flock of Bee-eaters. At the rear of the pump-house we had views of Black-winged stilt, Little stint, Wood sandpiper, Temminck's stint, Red-throated pipit, Ruff and Yellow wagtail. On the Kalloni saltpans highlights included Common shelduck, Ruddy shelduck, Black stork, White stork, Squacco heron, Little egret, Shag, Greater short-toed lark, Corn bunting and Avocet.

11th May - Skala Kalloni and Tsiknias river.

11th May - This morning was our last and packing early we walked from the hotel to the Tsiknias river along the road at the back of the bakery where we spotted 8 Squacco heron in the dyke and a Little owl which was calling from an old abandoned building. Near the bandstand a Golden oriole was noted and a small flock of Stone curlew passed over, other sightings included Olivacious warbler, Reed warbler and Black-winged stilt.

Further along the river a Common nightingale in full song was rudely interrupted by a Cetti's warbler who's call outweighed his stature. Other sightings included Great reed warbler, Sedge warbler, Corn bunting, Little bittern, Bee-eater, Glossy ibis and a Crested lark which ran past us disturbing several Spanish sparrow having a mud bath. Returning to the hotel we checked the trees at the Soccer pitch locating the 2 Long-eared owlets which were now re-united in the same tree and looking fit and healthy, a good end to our Lesvos birding trip.

Butterflies.